Insulation

Attic Insulation Techniques

Loose-fill or batt insulation is typically installed in an attic. Although installation costs may vary, loose-fill insulation is usually less expensive to install than batt insulation. When installed properly, loose-fill insulation also usually provides better coverage.

Our Professional Insulation Experts Will:

• Seal all attic-to-home air leaks. (Most insulation does not stop airflow)
• Duct exhaust fans to the outside.
• Seal around the duct where it exits the box.
• Seal the perimeter of the box to the drywall on attic side.
• Cover openings—such as dropped ceilings, soffits, and bulkheads—into attic area with
  plywood and seal to the attic side of the ceiling.
• Seal around chimney and framing with a high-temperature caulk or furnace cement.
• At the tops of interior walls, use long-life caulk to seal the smaller gaps and holes. We use
  expanding foam or strips of rigid foam board insulation for the larger gaps.
• Install blocking (metal flashing) to maintain fire-safety clearance requirements
  (usually 3 inches) for heat-producing equipment found in an attic, such as
  flues, chimneys, exhaust fans, and light housings/fixtures unless the light
  fixtures are IC (insulation contact) rated. IC-rated lights are airtight and can
  be covered with insulation.
• Make sure insulation doesn’t block soffit vents to allow for attic ventilation.
• Check the attic ceiling for water stains or marks.
• They indicate roof leaks or lack of ventilation. We’ll check with you, them make any necessary repairs before we begin the insulation process.

Also insulate and air seal your attic access if it’s located in a conditioned part of the house. We’ll properly insulate and air seal any knee walls—vertical walls with attic space directly behind them—in your home as well.